I'll Be Damned - Well For Today That Is!

[Saif Rehman]

Well, after taking the plunge and borrowing a few tools from a friend i decided to tackle the rear brakes. 0915 in the morning after doing the school run, car gets jacked-up, axel stands under, then stop! Bl**dy buggers at the tyre depot had tightened the bolts so hard that i had to find a massive pole to give me some leverage to get the things off.

Now, what i was very surprised to find was the nsr brake disc worn condsiderably and the pad nearest to me was worn down to the rivets yet the pad on the other side of the caliper was fine.

I, then remembered to take tha cap off the brake fliud reservoir, now, whoever came up with that idea to put it such an awkward place should be shot! The air cleaner box had to come out.

Off came the caliper, cabled-tied to the spring, rewind tool to push piston back, discs changed and new pads fitted (with a little filling aroung the edges).

The other side (osr) seemed ok compared to the nsr. So everthing from start to finish took 2 hours with a tea-break in between.

Took it for run and everthing was hunky-dorey. Well chuffed i was.

Feeling confident, i decided to change the resistor for the heater as for the past year it would only work at speeds 3 and 4. Reading the posts on this forum, it looked pretty straight forward. After 1 hour i gave up couldn't get the glove compartment removed no matter what i tried.

 

So, can anyone kind enough to give me a step by step instuctions on its removal would be greatly appreciated.

 

P.S. In regards to the brakes, i did not clamp the brake hose or touch the brake nipple but i was very careful and slow in rewinding the piston back. After driving the car and testing the brakes the fluid is just shy of the max mark with no signs of leakage or loss. So, what is census on this - clamp on or not required?

[big_kev]

Don't know about the Mk2 but with the mk1 you just open the glovebox and tug very hard.

[Bigjeeze]

Well, after taking the plunge and borrowing a few tools from a friend i decided to tackle the rear brakes. 0915 in the morning after doing the school run, car gets jacked-up, axel stands under, then stop! Bl**dy buggers at the tyre depot had tightened the bolts so hard that i had to find a massive pole to give me some leverage to get the things off.

Now, what i was very surprised to find was the nsr brake disc worn condsiderably and the pad nearest to me was worn down to the rivets yet the pad on the other side of the caliper was fine.

I, then remembered to take tha cap off the brake fliud reservoir, now, whoever came up with that idea to put it such an awkward place should be shot! The air cleaner box had to come out.

Off came the caliper, cabled-tied to the spring, rewind tool to push piston back, discs changed and new pads fitted (with a little filling aroung the edges).

The other side (osr) seemed ok compared to the nsr. So everthing from start to finish took 2 hours with a tea-break in between.

Took it for run and everthing was hunky-dorey. Well chuffed i was.

Feeling confident, i decided to change the resistor for the heater as for the past year it would only work at speeds 3 and 4. Reading the posts on this forum, it looked pretty straight forward. After 1 hour i gave up couldn't get the glove compartment removed no matter what i tried.

 

So, can anyone kind enough to give me a step by step instuctions on its removal would be greatly appreciated.

 

P.S. In regards to the brakes, i did not clamp the brake hose or touch the brake nipple but i was very careful and slow in rewinding the piston back. After driving the car and testing the brakes the fluid is just shy of the max mark with no signs of leakage or loss. So, what is census on this - clamp on or not required?

 

I had a problem on my rears a while ago whereby there was a permanent squealing which you could get rid of by tapping the pedal but it would eventually come back. I decided to look at the pads - took off one side the pad looked OK so I didn't bother taking off theother side - Big mistake! after more noise I decided to do it again - this time when I took off the caliper I discovered that the pads were worn similarly to yours Saif - but the disc was shot also. I then looked more carefully at the caliper and discovered that it had partially seized - so I had to buy new half calipers ( not the hydraulic bit) for both sides as well as the discs and pads. It could have been prevented by taking off the caliper and using some copper slip or similar in the moving part of the caliper. I check it regularly now!!

[Saif Rehman]

Don't know about the Mk2 but with the mk1 you just open the glovebox and tug very hard.

 

Thanks for the suggestion kev, but since there has been quite a few members on this forum who have replaced the resistor in the past, i was hoping for one of them to give me a step by step on the removal of the glovebox. Couldn't be bothered today to have another look but i'll try again tomorrow.

 

 

I had a problem on my rears a while ago whereby there was a permanent squealing which you could get rid of by tapping the pedal but it would eventually come back. I decided to look at the pads - took off one side the pad looked OK so I didn't bother taking off theother side - Big mistake! after more noise I decided to do it again - this time when I took off the caliper I discovered that the pads were worn similarly to yours Saif - but the disc was shot also. I then looked more carefully at the caliper and discovered that it had partially seized - so I had to buy new half calipers ( not the hydraulic bit) for both sides as well as the discs and pads. It could have been prevented by taking off the caliper and using some copper slip or similar in the moving part of the caliper. I check it regularly now!!

 

Bigjeeze, what surprised me even more was the fact the nsr caliper had been changed only a few months back because it had failed it's MOT on the rear brakes, i didn't use copper slip this time even though i had dug the cannister out! I know now that i should have applied it. I'll just need to keep an eye on the brakes say after a month or so to see how they are fairing.

Edited October 28, 2009 by Saif Rehman

[Audiman]

I had the same problem a coupl of years ago with the resistor - do a search user "Audiman" - you should get a reply which I used.

[Saif Rehman]

I had the same problem a coupl of years ago with the resistor - do a search user "Audiman" - you should get a reply which I used.

 

Audiman, you are a star! ;)

 

How the hell did i miss your post through all the trailling i did using the 'search' facility - anyway a virtual pint is on it's way to you.

 

Thanks again.

[big_kev]

It might be worth checking your resistor pack to see if its just the solder burnt off the connections rather than a failed resistor.

 

If so this can easily be repaired.

[Saif Rehman]

It might be worth checking your resistor pack to see if its just the solder burnt off the connections rather than a failed resistor.

 

If so this can easily be repaired.

 

Kev, the solder around resistor looked fine on the old one i removed following Audiman's instructions - i managed to get the new resistor pack from eBay about a year ago and iirc it only cost me

[big_kev]

Kev, the solder around resistor looked fine on the old one i removed following Audiman's instructions - i managed to get the new resistor pack from eBay about a year ago and iirc it only cost me

[gregers]

saif,you can have a look at my front electric window aswell plz m8,as mine is still fubared.

[Saif Rehman]

If your on a roll you can pop round and fix my aircon, Booster Heater, Electric Window, rear Light.........................................................there's more if you get bored.

 

saif,you can have a look at my front electric window aswell plz m8,as mine is still fubared.

 

Listen lads, you'll need to wait - tomorrow if the weather is okay then i'll have a look at the door gaiter (both sides) then at apprximately 1515hrs i will get my 9 yr old daughter (once she's back from school) to get the sidelight bulb holder out from underneath the wheel arch since my hands are far too big! ;)

 

P.S. My window too made a clunk recently but i don't want to take the door card off before i fix the other niggling problems.